Runin DC

Showing posts with label Istanbul. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Istanbul. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

A Dip Between Two Continents


Fishing small pogey-size fish in the Bosphorus. The fish migrate between the Black Sea and Marmara depending on season and can be found in kebab vendors all along the waterfront




History: Istanbul, a city enriched by history, was chosen as the site for the New Rome by Constantine in 324 AD the founding date of the Byzantine Empire. It was enriched by Constantine and conquered by Faith Sultan Mahomet in 1453. Today it is a bustling, glowing and modernizing city that opens its arms to Western visitors.

The Grand Beylerbeyi Palace at the Waterfront overlooking the Bosphorus Strait and the Asian side.

Overlooking an ice cream maker twirling a huge dough of ice cream during my run downhill towards Sirceki

My new friends I swam together in the Bosphorus
(I left my bag of belongings with their mother as I dived in the refreshing brackish waters)

As the waterway that divides Europe and Asia, the Bosphorus is the link between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea and is thus churned heavily and entirely clean.

Interestingly, Istanbul is the only city in the world located on two continents: Asia and Europe

In DC, I am always amazed whenever I get an opportunity to run in Maryland, Virginia and DC all on the same day (National Harbor to Alexandria via Woodrow Wilson Bridge is one such run).

But I've never considered ever running in two continents on the same day. I've never dreamt of swimming in between two continents, either.

Both of these goals were achieved today.

It was no different than swimming in any other body of water except in this case, I felt amazingly small and my problems particularly unimportant.

As a pedestrian, there is only one way to get across the Bosphorus (The Bosphorus Bridge is closed to pedestrians, runners, and cyclists).
This ferry took me over to the Asian side of Istanbul

I swam with this kid and all his friends at the shores of the Bosphorus
There are lots of remnants of old Navy equipment: torpedoes and even a carcass of an old submarine.

And that is exactly why I decided to take a dip in the Bosphorus Strait and the Sea of Marmara. The Bosphorus Strait, which separates the Sea of Marmar with the Black Sea, surprisingly was not very salty.

Contrary to public belief, you can swim in the Bosphorus. There are several locations north of the Galata Kpr (bridge) where someone can jump in and swim next to the shoreline. There are plenty of rock landing areas where an adventurous swimmer can swim ashore.

The Sea of Marmara (along Kennedy Boulevard) is a little more tricky since someone would have wear shoes to ensure he doesn't cut himself on the large jagged rocks.

And the water felt extremely cool and refreshingly uplifting.

After the dip, I continued my run from Sultanahmet to the Beylerbeyi Palace. I didn't take the beaten path where tourists and businessmen traversed. I took the lesser known path and wanted to see Istanbul in its purest, raw state.

I ran hard along narrow arteries, up and down pock-marked cobblestone roads, winding along historic buildings, castles and the majestic Hagia Sophia

In fact, I didn't see a single runner for the entire day, except in the evening running along Kennedy Boulevard adjacent to the Sea of Marmara.

During the day, I could hear many a tourists and locals commenting on how insane I was to go for a run in this unbearable hot and sticky temps. I commented casually, that it was no hotter than DC in July and feeling the wind against face actually cooled me down some.

But it was challenging dodging people, cars and fishermen along the bumpy, narrow cobblestone streets. Ladies wearing headscarves, men selling their wares in the bazaars -- it was all very interesting; it was all very uniquely Istanbul -- the most unusual city that I've ever visited.


The managers and staff at the Historic Hotel, like all the Turks I met, were very friendly and hospitable.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Images from Istanbul After Midnight -- Where East Meets West

The Hagia Sophia (located near the Blue Mosque),  the sheer apex of Byzantine architecture built in 537, is one of the most remarkable landmarks in Istanbul.  

Destination: The Old Empire

My flight from Heathrow to Istanbul on Turkish Air was quite enjoyable.  The DC-10 was very roomy, and the flight attendant was extremely hospitable especially when the Turkish beer exploded on my lap after opening it.  The food, also was quite tasty and warm.

There was only one thing, I wished the flight attendant had done once we arrived in Istanbul -- announce the local time.  Perhaps they did, but not in English (If you stay with me, you will see why this was critical, later).

The spectacular city of Istanbul spans several diverse eras, with virtually all of the original architecture, still intact.  

Istanbul has been an important and unique city and the capital of three empires: the Byzantine, the Eastern Roman and the Ottoman. The influence of each of these civilizations is very apparent everywhere you turn in this romantic and charming city.

Istanbul is the epitome of Islamic Capitalism.  Everyone seems to be working hard, in a whirlwind of fast-pace activity -- they are extremely welcoming and cordial to foreigners and tourists, and I welcomed the attention and good conversation.

Contrary to what I had expected before, Istanbul is eminently cultural.  Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, the city of style bridges Asia and Europe both physically and culturally.


There are over 13 million people in Istanbul.  

"The Million"  -- this is all that remains from this monument from the Ottoman Empire.  It has been known for centuries as the "Crossroads of the World."


Delicious Turkish deserts


I had to stop to satiate my appetite.

Istanbul is a wonderful town of over 13 million people.  I didn't make it to my hotel in the old city of Sultanahmet until close to midnight.  But I decided to go for a late night run anyway.   This run lasted well over three hours, not to mention, that I managed to get lost on the way home.  Also running from Sirkeci to Sultanahmet was all uphill for nearly a mile.

 I met a lot of interesting people, mostly vendors and there was a lot of good conversation.

This talented carpet shopkeeper was trying to sell me his favorite silk rug by first trying to make it fly.  He showed me how the rug would change colors once it was up in the air.


It was a common site all over Istanbul to see men playing backgammon.


Late night vendors selling grilled swordfish kebabs.  I was surprised how many vendors were out working past midnight on the Golden Horn waterfront by the Yeni Galata Bridge.

Everyone, from vendors, to restauranteurs to fishermen were very friendly and happy to see foreigners and to give me directions.


Sultan Ahmet Mosque -- I heard this at 5:00 AM while I was still typing this blog.

Hotel Historia, is small stylish hotel in the old city located near the Cosmopolitan Park.  My bedroom on the 6th floor had a nice balcony with a wonderful view of the Marmara Sea.


Enjoying a relaxing nargile (water pipe) after a long and challenging run.  The one I tried tasted  like strawberry which hit a sweet spot for me.  Many people refer to the nargile as a Hookah

The Hookah operates by direct filtration and indirect heat -- it is used for smoking herbal fruits and tobacco. A very friendly Turkish waiter named Naeem was gracious to share his nargile with me and I was happy to oblige.

So Istanbul is a stunningly beautiful and unique city with Ottoman sultans filled with history of the Roman Empire, beautiful galleries and museums, friendly people, lively streets, modern amenities, and a bustling tourism industry that continues to surprise.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Heading to Istanbul

I'm heading to Istanbul on a whim and a prayer...  

After not getting a seat on the overly crowded Space-A flight to Ramstein (it was an active MEDEVAC flight), I drove back home and went back to the drawing board.

"What shall I do, now,"  I wondered.  Frustrated but still faithful.  I came up with a new outrageous plan.

I will still run in Europe.  However, there is now a new twist.

Instead of starting in Germany, I will start in Istanbul, the crossroads of Europe and Asia.  I will fly there from Dulles. I will spend a day or two there and will swim in the Bosphorus Strait.  This is the body of water that separates the European and Asian side of Istanbul.

From there, I plan to catch a train from Istanbul to Budapest and spend the night.

Next will be another train to Prague where my fun and exciting journey will continue.  My final European city, Berlin, I hope.  I have to be in school by the 16th, or else I'll be in big trouble.  (I hope my GW professor is reading this, just in case I make it back with sound body but not mind...)







 


Running in Budapest (8 August)

The Lake Zurich Swim

Operation Welcome Home