The Lake Zurich Swim

Zurich -- A Pleasant Surprise

    The really remarkable aspect about this trip is that I am traveling on a shoestring and  living on the edge -- sometimes not knowing when I might arrive or where I might periodically spend the night.

So with 24 hours to spare before my Air Mobility Command (AMC) flight from Ramstein, I decided to take an overnight train into Basel, Switzerland, my 10th country on this unbelievable trek from one corner of the southeast fringes of Europe where the Bosphorus Strait, strong and salty flowed into the Black Sea to the mouth of the brackish Baltic Sea in Poland.

    On the Deutsche Bahn train, I ran into a girl named Carina who called Zurich home. I informed her that I was traveling to Basel just to have a look. She seemed rather surprised, a tad bit disapointed.

"My first time to Switzerland," I said.

"You should go to Zurich," she asserted. "It's better --- way better, and more fun, too."

So there you have it. As usual, I don't like to wait for a flight, and now my trip takes another last minute unexpected twist and exciting turn for the next adventure in this European trek through some of the most exotic places on Earth.

   That's why it's normally a good idea to talk to the locals (who are experts in their community) and to be agile -- stay on your toes and be as flexible as a rubber band on a slingshot.

You'll bounce around a lot, but you'll also stick around to hear that tale and to catch that almost-forgotten story.

I would argue that Switzerland has the best tasting water in Europe. Water from the tap is probably just as pure as bottled spring water, and nothing beats the taste except probably Swiss chocolate.

Beside the statues of gorgeous, erotic women all over town and where you least expect it, there are Rock formations along the storied banks of Lake Zurich -- a difficult undertaking that only lasts until the tide comes in and takes it back to King Neptune.

    I also met a family roasting Lobsters by the Lake and not worried about a thing -- they felt so friendly, they wanted to offer me some. Everyone seems so relaxed and affable here. Strolling or sitting by the lake, the world's problems simply wash away where society and the social classes ebbs and flows and are cordial to come and chat with you or even share a bite with cheese and wine. Here in Lake Zurich, even the swans are friendly and social -- they won't disappoint, or say go away.

Beautiful model along the Lake. In Zurich, these statues are everywhere -- at the park, by the playground, near a busy street. Since these statutes are life size and represent real-life expressions, one can be easily fooled to think they will any minute get up and move.

Sauna Am See, the public pool where I went swimming in the Zurich Lake

Zurich is clearly he cultural capital of Switzerland. Filled rim to brim with museums, art galleries and film festivals, Zurich is a progressive, cosmopolitan city on the same level as Tokyo, LA, or Montreal.

So, I am so glad I decided (at the last given minute) to visit this enchanting city. This charming, elegant and once small-town village on the Lake, turned out to be one of my favorite places in my 10-country trip from Bosphorous to Baltic.

Life is full of happy surprises -- I'm glad I stumbled upon this unfound one.

Szczecin, Poland

High rise apartments seen from the train

The Odra River -- the river that I wanted to take a dip in, but decided against it when I took a peak

The train from Szczein, Poland to Zurich, Switzerland was fun and interesting. Lots of transfers.

Szczecin is a very unique, historic town right on the Oldra River that feeds into the Baltic Sea, only 15 km away.   I really wanted to take a dip in the river but I went looked over and saw the oily slime, I changed my mind.

I wanted to spend more time in Poland and eventually visit Warsaw, but for now this would be it.  I was on a time crunch and needed to be home this weekend.

So, I didn't spend much time in Poland.  Caught the next train back to Berlin and then the night train to Switzerland.

Berlin Rocks!

I'm standing in Pottsdam Platz, embracing the Berlin Wall

For 30 years, the wall stood impenetrable, so long, so tall

The wounds inflicted here were so painful, so deep

Scars that will never go away, memories that we will always keep

* Between 1949 and 1961, nearly 2.5 million East Germans left to start new lives in the West.


To stem the flow of Germans fleeting to West Germany, the German Democratic Republic erected the wall nearly overnight.  Can you imagine waking up to see a huge wall erected.  One day you have family and friends on the other side.  The next day, you are unable to see or even communicate with them.

In 1962, Peter Fechter was shot while attempting to flee to West Germany.  The tragedy was that the GDR allowed Fechter to bleed to death.  A large crowd watched and wanted to rescue him, but were scared that they would be shot also.  Fechter became a symbol of resistance against the wall.

Here we are in the center of history for Prussia and Germany, the Brandenburg Gate

Sitting on top of the Wall is the Quadriga, a symbol of triumph of peace not war and hate

In 1987, President Reagan ordered Gorbachev to "Tear down the Wall."

Two years later, citizens from both the east and west passed through, the beginning of a reunited Germany and democracy for all.

The Jewish Memorial

Alexanderplatz

On 4 November 1989, the largest demonstration in Germany

They wanted democracy now

They made it perfectly clear

The Berliner Dome

This is where many Berliners call home

It is located adjacent to Lust Garden

A sanctuary for arts and science, that's why Berliners call this Museum Island

Run in Berlin

Prague Plus Hostel -- Great Rooms, Terrible Bikes

I've definitely enjoyed the interesting experience of staying at Prague Plus Hostel.  The amenities are FANTASTIC with a sauna and pool, open in the morning and evening.  

The club house, bar and restaurant is well decorated and quite equipped with plasma screen displays, pool table, and loud music. 

The food is actually quite tasty.  I enjoyed a nice, warm authentic Czech dinner with roast pork smothered rich with tomato sauce.  Later that evening, when the munchies got the best of me, I enjoyed bruschetta bread, with heap of tomatoes, mozarella cheese and basil.

There were lots of college students, I mean tons from all continents mostly from Europe and Australia -- Big difference than the Historia Hostel where the residents were a lot older (though, much younger than me, I'm sure).

They put me again in a eight-person dormitory bunk room (coed) with only one shower and one toilet.

The staff are also very hospitable and friendly.  I was very impressed by the whole experience.  The night crew even let me stay in the lounge all night long and use their WiFi while I waited for my 0630 train to Berlin (which I decided to skip so I could finish my YouTube video).

On the second day, I checked out a bicycle from Praha Bikes at the Prague Plus Hostel.  I have to say that the quality of the bikes is quite shabby.  I know, because I checked out two bikes that day.  The first bike the chain would pop out and eventually completely came out of the derailer.  I had to walk the bike (45 mins) back to the hostel and Praha Bikes charged me about 20 Euros for the damage, which I explained to them was not my fault.  Still it fell on deaf ears.

Needless, to say, I still had time left on my rental, so I took out a second bike.  This time, the bike was better, but still needed a tune up.

Still biking was a great idea, because it gave me a chance to see a lot of the sites from Old Town, Wenceslas Square, New Town, Charles Bridge, etc.

I was also able to get a good swim at the Hostel twice today, so I was able to squeeze in a three-sport training day in Prague -- first time during this trip. Running was long, but it was rigorous. Loving this city, and glad I'm able to continue training.

Running in Budapest (8 August)

Prague: Pristine, Political, Palatial

There's something magical about Prague.  Perhaps it's the gothic architecture.  Perhaps it's the art nouveau streets.  Maybe it's because Prague has some of the most beautiful historic architecture true to form.  Perhaps it's because Europe's most popular tourist destination was virtually unvisited by tourists until the Fall of Communism in 1989. 

Wenceslas Square

Wenceslas Square is a vibrant area of restaurants and shops

Laid out over 600 years ago by King Charles IV, it was originally used as the Prague horse market. 
Today, the only horse you will see is the one on top of the street carrying the legendary King Wencelas.

Over the years, the square has been a regular parade ground for all kinds of events and celebrations

At the top is the statue of St. Wenceslas on his horse cutting a striking figure

This is good King Wenceslas, a national hero, murdered over a thousand years ago by his brother.

In front of St. Wenceslas are two plaques in memory of those killed during the Communist era.

Prague was the seat of two holy Roman Emperors and thus was also the capital of the Holy Roman Empire City flourished during the 14th century reign of the King of Bohemia.


In 1945, the people of Prague revolted against the Nazis.  The Nazis retaliated covering the Square and the city with smoke and fire.  It was a dark time, but the people of Prague revolted and were succeeded in squashing the enemy.


Shortly after the war, the Communist Party began its rule.  They ruled until 1989 when the people of Czechoslovakia protested during the Velvet Revolution.  On November 17, 1989, riot police suppressed a peaceful student demonstration in Prague.  That event sparked more demonstrations to late December.  The number of protestors grew from a couple hundred thousand to half a million.


These protests were successful in pressuring the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia to dismantle communism.  The next year, the country held its first democratic elections since 1946.

Charles Bridge

Beautiful Charles Bridge is the postcard of this great city. Today it looks just the same as it did in the 14th century. In the center of the bridge is the St John of Nepomuk statue.

You're supposed to touch it with your left hand, then make a wish, you almost have to.

Prague Castle

The Prague Castle stands atop the hills

The stones grow even stronger

For the castle's built on love and hope

Alone you are no longer

Old Town Square

Step into the Old Town Square and journey back in time, 700 years

As you stand in awe, the dramatic history of Prague permeates the air

Sit back and soak up the atmosphere

Dating back to the late 12th century, the Old Town Square

Jindrisska Tower

Jindrisska Tower dates from the late gothic era

Following a major fire in 1745, Jindrisska was rebuilt in the baroque style

At the top, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of Prague's city center

Jindrisska is so peaceful, you might be up there for a while

Train to Vienna, then Onward to Prague

Kerepesi Train Station in Budapest -- only a 2o min walk from the hostel

I rushed to the train station from the Corvin Point Hostel to the Train station on time with a few minutes to spare. But the conductor would not let me board the train.  Unfortunately I had not validated my Eurorail ticket and I would have to wait two hours for the next train.

No problem -- n0thing like missing my train completely in Istanbul.  After getting my ticket validated, I walked next door to the McDonalds where I could use their WiFi for free.  Eating at McDonalds in Europe is a lot more upscale and fashionable than eating at Mickie D's in the states.

Lucky for me, the 1720 train leaving Budapest was a lot more modern with posh, leather seats and included a dining car.

I got into Vienna by 2030 and inquired about catching the 2212 train to Prague.  Since this was a sleeper, I needed to make a reservation (which closes four hours before the train). The information desk recommended that I just show up and see if I can find a free seat.

Views of Vienna -- a beautiful, modern and very clean city

I hung out at the Wombat Hostel -- a very clean, hospitable and vibrant place of rest

One more thing I tried was to walk next door to see if I could get a room at the Wombat Hostel -- unfortunately, they were fully booked.  So I managed to get dinner while checking my email with the complementary WiFi.  

Then I walked over to board my train.  Since I did not have a reservation, the conductor informed me that she would charge me an additional 25 Euros during the trip.  I agreed and boarded the train. 25 Euros seemed too high, but it seemed worth it to press on towards Prague.

The train, though tight, was fairly comfortable.  The couches pulled down, and if you were lucky not to have someone sitting across from you, which I was, I was able to lay my feet up and catch a snooze.

The train stopped a few times, and I met several people on the way.  Amazingly, the train arrived in Prague by 0400.  Thankfully, my couch mate woke me up, otherwise, I would have slept right through and rode to Dresden.  

The train station (Holosevic) was several metro stops from the main train station.  When we arrived there, it was way too early, so I managed to catch some ZZZs on a wood bench.   I was ok, until I decided to stretch out, in which case the metro security would wake me up and inform me that sleeping was not allowed.  When daybreak arrived, I found my way outside the station and was happy to see a shady, grass hill where many backpackers were taking a nap.  So I was happy to incline and resume my cat nap under a large, balmy oak tree while the sun peeked through the dancing leaves, its golden rays warming my weary face.

Scenes from the main train station in Prague (Note trains from Prague and Berlin do not stop here).  Below you can see where I took a nap after a long, exhausting ride on the train.

After waking, I decided to head back inside the central station.  I found a friendly tourist information desk. After asking if they were aware of any hostels that provided free WiFi, they recommended the Prague Plus Hostel near the Holosevic station -- exactly the train station that I arrived in at 0400 this morning.

I was happy to incline, and am currently enjoying a nice Czech dinner (roast pork with tomato sauce) while I type this blog.  I am extremely weary and looking forward to tomorrow to explore the Golden City

Buda Pest Rap

The Pest side of the Parliament Building (where I almost lost my viewvu camera)

Gorgeous sunset over the River Danube overlooking the Pest side (from the Intercontinental)

History

Budapest, the capital of Hungary, is a major cosmopolitan hub where Central Europe segue into the East. Just 20 years ago, the city and its two million people were clearly tied to the East when the Hungarian Communist Party held its reins.

Around the city, there are many vestiges of Lenins legacy. At the Hungarian Parliament building, the flag has a hole in it to commemorate how in 1956, the Hungarians revolted against the the Soviet Union.

The Hungarian Parliament Building is the seat of the National Assembly

Built to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the nation of Hungary

Similar to the Palace of Westminster, it was built in the style of Gothic Revival

One of the most famous part of the building is the 16 sided central hall also known as the Hexadecagonal

 

Check out this beautiful city of Budapest, Hungary

What was once three separate cities became one in 1873 

Budapest, Queen of the Danube River is a city of spas. 

Everything is close together, nothing's too far.

Danube River

The River Danube is the longest in the EU

Originating from the Black Forests of Germany

It Passes through Central and Eastern Europe stretching out its arms like one big family

Before it empties its precious commodity into the majestic Black Sea

Buda Castle

Buda Castle is the historical home for many Hungarian Kings.

Built in the 14 century it has survived a few losses and many more wins

Buda Castle was the last major strongpoint of the united city

During the siege in 1945 it was held by the Axis

After the war, grand scale reconstruction took place

Now rebuilt a symbol of peace, it has changed the city landscape.

Buda Castle at night

My First Hostel Experience

I'm staying in a nice and cozy hostel called Corvin Point.  It is located in a nondescript building two blocks from the River and several blocks from the city core. 

The walk from the Keleti train station took only 20 minutes.  All the buildings seemed old and drab.  I could see the look on people's faces -- resolute and persistent.

When I first approached, I had no idea what I was getting myself into.  John (who I met in the train from Istanbul) and I were hesitant.  The building seemed drab and unconvincing.

On the way, we saw a very old, ornate building with a green dome and statues adorned, traces of history and culture and vestiges of the Red Army throughout the city.

When we walked in.  The building itself has some character.  Inside the building, the courtyard is riddled with bullet holes.  Apparently, a massive conflict took place here during the Hungarian Revolution in the mid 1950s against the Communists.

For the very first time, I started to feel like we were taken back in time, amidst the Communist Revolution.

What a perfect momento for the troublesome days.  The scarred buildings in Pest remind us of the trouble and conflict that the Hungarian people experienced.

Corvin Point is an outstanding hostel.  Everything looked new and clean.  The bathrooms were plenty and immaculate and the room (eight-person bunkroom) was roomy and comfortable.  

The staff (Zoltan and Flora) were extremely friendly and took the time to explain directions and historical landmarks that we should visit.

The breakfast was very tasty and substantive. Loved the mix grain cereal, the hot, filling sandwiches and the cool, peach ice tea.

Also, it was very nice to meet new friends who we could go out in town with or to swap stories or get recommendations for places to visit.

Missed My Train, then a 36-Hour Train Ride on the Orient (Dusty) Express

I couldn't believe what happened. I showed up to the train station (Serkeci) on time, with a huge amount of satisfaction, or so I thought. Actually I showed up with 45 mins to spare. But when I looked for my train, it wasn't there, not even a friendly backpacker from Australia or Denmark.

Oh no! The train had departed 15 minutes ago. My ticket would expire by tomorrow and I had to wait another 24 hours to board a train to Budapest, pushing my schedule back another priceless 24 hours (I have to be at GW for my residency by the 16th).

As soon as I realized what happened, an obnoxious taxi driver came rushing towards me.

"I can take you to Cerkezko," he insisted, as if he was the answer to my prayers.

I was reluctant. Carkezko, the next stop was over 80 km away -- the train would arrive there two hours later, by midnight. The taxi driver could not show me on the map where this town was -- I was doubtful he knew where it was -- and I was afraid that he would rip me off.

"No train, no money, no problem," he exclaimed, meaning if we didn't make it to the next town on time to meet the train, he would simply bring me back to Istanbul and I wouldn't have to pay a fare.

Without much choices and after talking with the station manager, I decided that this was foolishly the best course of action.

Though taxi drivers in Istanbul are known to be offensive, aggressive drivers and love to tell you their life stories, they are for the most part trustworthy. They are not thieves, and they are not known to harm you.

So, why, was I, aka "Mr. Prompto", 15 minutes late for the train. Well, yesterday, when I arrived in Istanbul from London, I advanced my watch by one hour. But actually, I should have advanced my watch by two hours. I didn't know -- nobody had told me, not even the friendly flight attendant.

So for the entire day, I was operating an hour behind everyone else in Istanbul. I was wondering why my hotel receptionist at the Historia Hotel was so upset when I checked out at 11:15 AM -- I was over an hour late for check-out, and I didn't even realize it.

So Carmile, the taxi driver, drove like a bandit, honking and shouting, and got me to Cerkezkoy, 75 km away, with 15 minutes to spare. The price -- he didn't have a meter -- was $170 USD. The price was steep, but not having to spend another night in Istanbul (which I wouldn't really have minded) and boarding my train to Eastern Europe, was well worth the money.

So Taxi drivers in Istanbul can be trusted, for the most part. But I wouldn't suggest anyone miss the train. And always, always, synchronize your watch with the local time, religiously.

The Orient Express from Istanbul to Budapest was very noisy, dusty and hot. At first, the train was fully booked and they put me in a coed couchette with four other people squeezed together in a very tight cabin. I felt like I was in a submarine, except for the clack, clack, clack of the train rail that went on continuously through the damp, dusty night.

There was nothing better than getting woken up at 4:00 in the morning and having to disembark the train with women and children standing in line to show our passport to customs at Kapikule.

The restroom facilities was filthy and never had enough toilet paper or soap. So word for the wise, if you go on these long train trips, I suggest you bring your own basic essentials.

Also there is no food or water. It wasn't until we arrived in middle Bulgaria midday, where a little kid tried to sell us sandwiches and water from the train window for 5 Euros. Perhaps he had hiked up the prices, perhaps, his mother made the sandwiches. Nevertheless, we were famished and those salami and cheese sandwiches was exactly what the doctor ordered.

The train stopped in Bucharest where we had a quick look outside. I noticed that there were a lot of stray dogs running the streets. Homeless dogs appeared in the 1980's after Ceausecu's dictatorship, when houses with yards and fences were destroyed and replaced with apartments with very small rooms. This forced people to keep their dogs on the streets where they repopulated and now there is an enormous stray dog problem

Bucharest, Romania

Taking a picture of a statue. I have no idea what this lady was saying to me.

A Dip Between Two Continents

Fishing small pogey-size fish in the Bosphorus. The fish migrate between the Black Sea and Marmara depending on season and can be found in kebab vendors all along the waterfront

History: Istanbul, a city enriched by history, was chosen as the site for the New Rome by Constantine in 324 AD the founding date of the Byzantine Empire. It was enriched by Constantine and conquered by Faith Sultan Mahomet in 1453. Today it is a bustling, glowing and modernizing city that opens its arms to Western visitors.

The Grand Beylerbeyi Palace at the Waterfront overlooking the Bosphorus Strait and the Asian side.

Overlooking an ice cream maker twirling a huge dough of ice cream during my run downhill towards Sirceki

My new friends I swam together in the Bosphorus

(I left my bag of belongings with their mother as I dived in the refreshing brackish waters)

As the waterway that divides Europe and Asia, the Bosphorus is the link between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea and is thus churned heavily and entirely clean.

Interestingly, Istanbul is the only city in the world located on two continents: Asia and Europe

In DC, I am always amazed whenever I get an opportunity to run in Maryland, Virginia and DC all on the same day (National Harbor to Alexandria via Woodrow Wilson Bridge is one such run).

But I've never considered ever running in two continents on the same day. I've never dreamt of swimming in between two continents, either.

Both of these goals were achieved today.

It was no different than swimming in any other body of water except in this case, I felt amazingly small and my problems particularly unimportant.

As a pedestrian, there is only one way to get across the Bosphorus (The Bosphorus Bridge is closed to pedestrians, runners, and cyclists).

This ferry took me over to the Asian side of Istanbul

I swam with this kid and all his friends at the shores of the Bosphorus

There are lots of remnants of old Navy equipment: torpedoes and even a carcass of an old submarine.

And that is exactly why I decided to take a dip in the Bosphorus Strait and the Sea of Marmara. The Bosphorus Strait, which separates the Sea of Marmar with the Black Sea, surprisingly was not very salty.

Contrary to public belief, you can swim in the Bosphorus. There are several locations north of the Galata Kpr (bridge) where someone can jump in and swim next to the shoreline. There are plenty of rock landing areas where an adventurous swimmer can swim ashore.

The Sea of Marmara (along Kennedy Boulevard) is a little more tricky since someone would have wear shoes to ensure he doesn't cut himself on the large jagged rocks.

And the water felt extremely cool and refreshingly uplifting.

After the dip, I continued my run from Sultanahmet to the Beylerbeyi Palace. I didn't take the beaten path where tourists and businessmen traversed. I took the lesser known path and wanted to see Istanbul in its purest, raw state.

I ran hard along narrow arteries, up and down pock-marked cobblestone roads, winding along historic buildings, castles and the majestic Hagia Sophia

In fact, I didn't see a single runner for the entire day, except in the evening running along Kennedy Boulevard adjacent to the Sea of Marmara.

During the day, I could hear many a tourists and locals commenting on how insane I was to go for a run in this unbearable hot and sticky temps. I commented casually, that it was no hotter than DC in July and feeling the wind against face actually cooled me down some.

But it was challenging dodging people, cars and fishermen along the bumpy, narrow cobblestone streets. Ladies wearing headscarves, men selling their wares in the bazaars -- it was all very interesting; it was all very uniquely Istanbul -- the most unusual city that I've ever visited.

The managers and staff at the Historic Hotel, like all the Turks I met, were very friendly and hospitable.

Images from Istanbul After Midnight -- Where East Meets West

The Hagia Sophia (located near the Blue Mosque),  the sheer apex of Byzantine architecture built in 537, is one of the most remarkable landmarks in Istanbul.  

Destination: The Old Empire

My flight from Heathrow to Istanbul on Turkish Air was quite enjoyable.  The DC-10 was very roomy, and the flight attendant was extremely hospitable especially when the Turkish beer exploded on my lap after opening it.  The food, also was quite tasty and warm.

There was only one thing, I wished the flight attendant had done once we arrived in Istanbul -- announce the local time.  Perhaps they did, but not in English (If you stay with me, you will see why this was critical, later).

The spectacular city of Istanbul spans several diverse eras, with virtually all of the original architecture, still intact.  

Istanbul has been an important and unique city and the capital of three empires: the Byzantine, the Eastern Roman and the Ottoman. The influence of each of these civilizations is very apparent everywhere you turn in this romantic and charming city.

Istanbul is the epitome of Islamic Capitalism.  Everyone seems to be working hard, in a whirlwind of fast-pace activity -- they are extremely welcoming and cordial to foreigners and tourists, and I welcomed the attention and good conversation.

Contrary to what I had expected before, Istanbul is eminently cultural.  Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, the city of style bridges Asia and Europe both physically and culturally.

There are over 13 million people in Istanbul.  

"The Million"  -- this is all that remains from this monument from the Ottoman Empire.  It has been known for centuries as the "Crossroads of the World."

Delicious Turkish deserts

I had to stop to satiate my appetite.

Istanbul is a wonderful town of over 13 million people.  I didn't make it to my hotel in the old city of Sultanahmet until close to midnight.  But I decided to go for a late night run anyway.   This run lasted well over three hours, not to mention, that I managed to get lost on the way home.  Also running from Sirkeci to Sultanahmet was all uphill for nearly a mile.

 I met a lot of interesting people, mostly vendors and there was a lot of good conversation.

This talented carpet shopkeeper was trying to sell me his favorite silk rug by first trying to make it fly.  He showed me how the rug would change colors once it was up in the air.

It was a common site all over Istanbul to see men playing backgammon.

Late night vendors selling grilled swordfish kebabs.  I was surprised how many vendors were out working past midnight on the Golden Horn waterfront by the Yeni Galata Bridge.

Everyone, from vendors, to restauranteurs to fishermen were very friendly and happy to see foreigners and to give me directions.

Sultan Ahmet Mosque -- I heard this at 5:00 AM while I was still typing this blog.

Hotel Historia, is small stylish hotel in the old city located near the Cosmopolitan Park.  My bedroom on the 6th floor had a nice balcony with a wonderful view of the Marmara Sea.

Enjoying a relaxing nargile (water pipe) after a long and challenging run.  The one I tried tasted  like strawberry which hit a sweet spot for me.  Many people refer to the nargile as a Hookah

The Hookah operates by direct filtration and indirect heat -- it is used for smoking herbal fruits and tobacco. A very friendly Turkish waiter named Naeem was gracious to share his nargile with me and I was happy to oblige.

So Istanbul is a stunningly beautiful and unique city with Ottoman sultans filled with history of the Roman Empire, beautiful galleries and museums, friendly people, lively streets, modern amenities, and a bustling tourism industry that continues to surprise.